This is a dress I made back in June after binge watching Dead to Me over one weekend and immediately deciding that I need to recreate everything Linda Cardellini wears in that show. Seeing a movie or TV show and getting fixated on the wardrobe is something that happens to me VERY often – there was a period of time when I was battling strong urge to recreate every outfit from 500 Days of Summer and make a blog around that. And then the same thing again just with La La Land. And Pushing Daisies before that. But I digress. What was I talking about?
Oh yes, my Judy dress. Judy, you see, is the name of a character from above mentioned TV show and her wardrobe is this lovely mix of 70s and 60s inspired outfits. Among other awesome things she has several shift mini dresses in retro floral prints – a style that reminded me of one particular fabric I already had in my stash. It’s cotton stretch and I bought it last year with a plan to make pretty much this exact dress, as I thought both print and colour palette feel very 60s. I mean, what a serendipity! When it’s meant to be it’s meant to be.
And before I forget – as always, you can click on the pictures to enlarge them and see more details!
Choosing the pattern was surprisingly easy – I opted for tried and true shift dress #105 from May 2016 issue of BurdaStyle magazine. I made it once before and I loved the fit and silhouette – it has slim A line skirt and slightly raised waistline, both of which I find very flattering.
For this one I made no changes to the pattern fit wise – I went with size 36 at the bust and waist graded up to 40 at the hips (my usual size with Burda patterns) and I’m very happy with the fit! My body measurements actually puts me in size 38 for bust/waist and 42 for hips, but the amount of ease included in BurdaStyle patterns is too much for my liking so I usually go one size down. That being said, if I’m sewing a pattern that has sleeves that additional ease is often needed in order to be able to move my arms comfortably, so sometimes I do start with size 38 and then fit as I go. With this particular one I didn’t do that, as I was using fabric with some stretch in it so I knew I’ll be fine.
I work with Burda patterns a lot so I’m familiar with their sizing, but if you’re new to BurdaStyle I would definitely recommend making a muslin first to help you figure out your size! I know a lot of people find Burda to be too much trouble, but in my opinion it’s definitely worth it as once you work out the right size fit is pretty much impeccable and incomparable to anything else out there. At least that’s my experience!
I did make a couple of small changes design wise, like omitting faux pocket flaps at the waist. I do like this detail a lot, but as my fabric is quite loud and busy I wanted the silhouette to be simple and streamlined and detail like this would just get lost in it. Also, I skipped side seam pockets – I just think putting in-seam pockets on A line skirt is silly. They will gap, they’ll add bulk, it just won’t look good. Personally, I often find that no pockets is better than in-seam pockets, both regarding functionality and looks, and I will skip them happily! I know, scandalous. Oh well..
This pattern is pretty straightforward and sewing it was a breeze, especially since I wasn’t adding any additional bells and whistles. It comes with neckline facings but I’m not a huge fan of those, so on my dress neckline is finished with bias tape. I did however drafted facings for the hem, partially because I like the look and partially because I couldn’t afford to lose any additional length. I’ve been sewing for over 10 years now and I’m yet to master the skill of leaving enough hem allowance. Some people never learn..
The end result is a very sweet and simple dress and I love it so much! It’s so easy to wear – it was definitely my summer staple this season and hopefully I’ll reach for it often next year as well. Now I only need to recreate other 23 Judy’s outfit I’m obsessed with! I think I may be watching too much TV…